Ball Python Care Sheet

Ball Pythons (python regius), also known as Royal pythons, are commonly known for the behavior of curling up into a tight compact ball, hence the name. Snake enthusiasts commonly keep them, but they need very particular requirements to thrive.

In the wild ball pythons are found in Central and Western Africa. They are most active early in the morning and in the evening around dusk. Ball pythons typically reach 4 to 5 feet in length. As adults they should be fairly round, as this is a sign they are being properly nourished. Ball pythons are known to eat many different prey items in the wild. They have been recorded eating lizards, snakes, frogs, small birds and more. They do not eat mice or rats in the wild and therefore when offered these items many initially do not respond. This is why many wild caught ball pythons are picky and reluctant to eat. Many owners get very frustrated and seek veterinary care. This is the best place to go to get help. Others bank on the fact that ball pythons have been recorded in the wild as going without food for a year and still surviving. This is true, however it is unhealthy and one should seek veterinary care if they notice a change in their snake’s appetite.

Many people are curious how to tell whether their ball python is male or female. The most accurate way of finding out is to have the snake probed by a trained professional. There are characteristics to help determine the sex of the snake of course, but they are not as accurate as probing. Male ball pythons generally have larger anal spurs, which are vestigial hind legs left over from the evolution process, and also have smaller heads than the females. Female ball pythons are egg layers. They encircle their eggs, which generally range from 4 to 10 per clutch, and remain with then from the time they are laid until they hatch. This process takes approximately three months and the female will not leave the eggs for any reason, not even to eat.

Some of the basic provisions a ball python will need include a suitable cage and substrate, a way to regulate and maintain accurate temperatures and humidity, a clean adequate water source, a whole food diet, and a hiding place to provide the snake with a sense of security.

Starting with the enclosure, a full-grown ball python will require at least a thirty-gallon tank. This can be a glass aquarium with a screen top lid to provide ventilation all the way to a specially designed reptile cage made of plexi-glass and plastic. Regardless of the materials used the most important aspects include size, ventilation, capacity to retain some levels of humidity, and most importantly it has to be escape proof. Ball pythons, like most other snakes, are escape artists. All they need is the opportunity and escape is guaranteed.

The substrate of a ball python is important. If you are looking for a low maintenance, easily cleaned substrate then paper towels are right for you. They are cheap and are easy to remove and replace. If you are looking for a more natural ground covering, then substrates like cork bark, orchid bark, fir bark and shredded cyprus are some of the options you may choose from. You should avoid using pine, cedar, and aspen shavings as they are easily ingested and can contribute to many health problems, particularly respiratory problems. If you are looking for a substrate that falls in between these categories than maybe Astroturf is what’s right for you. It adds an element of décor and is fairly easy to clean.

Temperature and Humidity are very vital aspects to any reptile’s life. Giving your snake a proper temperature range to allow for thermoregulation is essential to keeping a healthy snake. The ambient air temperature in a ball python’s enclosure must be maintained between 78º- 85º during the day, with a basking area of 90º. At night, the temperature on the coolest end of the tank should not get lower than 73º-75º, unless a basking area of at least 80º is available. Without the ability to thermoregulate a snake cannot digest it’s food and will eventually get sick. If left in this condition eventually death is imminent. There are several options to help achieve the proper temperature ranges. First and foremost a thermometer is required. One on the cool end and one on the warmer end are optimal. Heat sources include under tank heating pads, overhead incandescent light bulbs in porcelain and metal reflector hoods, and even hot rocks. Hot rocks are not recommended because they can get too hot and cause thermal burns to the snake. Snakes pain receptors are infinitely slower than ours and thus will not respond to the heat as quickly as we would, thus increasing the severity of the burn. The same reasoning applies to incandescent light bulbs that are not covered by a protective screen.

Having a hygrometer in the enclosure can monitor humidity. Ball Pythons thrive in a relatively low level of humidity. They do however need to have access to an area where the moisture level is higher. The best way to maintain this is to have a large water bowl available for the snake to submerge itself in. A hide box that is lined with damp moss can help as well. The moss should be misted down daily to avoid drying out. There should be another hide box available so the snake does not spend all of its time in a high humidity area. This can lead to respiratory problems and can also cause blisters on the belly.

When considering a water source for you snake, make sure that it is large enough for the snake to submerge itself in. You will want to change the water out daily so a removable water source is a must. A large dog dish or bowl work nicely. It is also recommended to use a de-chlorinator on any water that you are giving a reptile, but this is optional and tap water has not been proven detrimental to snakes.

A Ball Python’s diet will have to consist of a whole food diet. Ball Pythons are carnivores and all there nutritional needs are met by eating a prey source that is completely intact. They use all the parts for nutritional needs and whatever is not needed is excreted after digestion. Mice and rats are adequate for captive ball pythons, but as stated earlier wild caught specimens may be reluctant to eat them. A way to help entice a snake to eat a foreign food item is to scent it with something they would normally eat. Feed the normal item first, then the new food item. Just make sure not to feed too much. It is also recommended to feed frozen food items that have been warmed in hot water. Frozen specimens will not carry the parasites that the live prey can harbor. One recommendation when feeding is to move the snake into a special feeding container. This way they will not associate your hand coming in the enclosure with a food source. This will help to prevent any undo injuries. Also make sure your hands do not smell like a prey item. Wash them after handling any food intended for the snake.

A hide box is the last item in a basic ball python set-up that you will need to consider. You will want a place where the snake will feel secure and comfortable in its environment. Items ranging from hollowed out logs to plastic containers work well for this. If you are using anything collected from outside you will want to make sure it is free from parasites before introducing it into the enclosure. Make sure the hide box is large enough for the snake to fit it’s body in entirely, but not too expansive were the snake might not feel protected. You may have to play around with it to see what works best.

Ball pythons can be rewarding pets if properly cared for and if precautions are taken to ensure safety. You’ll want to remember that each individual animal will be different and that his or her personalities and likes and dislikes will vary. It is important to care for these animals properly and the first thing that can be done in the process of making that happen is consulting with a qualified reptile veterinarian.